The upcoming fall 2022 men’s shows might seem a little deserted, with brands canceling shows (as was the case with Giorgio Armani) or postponing until after the Omicron wave (as Pitti special guest Ann Demeulemeester did), but even with reduced in-person attendance, menswear is flourishing. Our own Luke Leitch is looking on the bright side. “Pitti is pretty quiet—a combination of cold and Omicron has clearly deterred some visitors,” he reported from Florence. “The upside however is you don’t have to wrestle through a flock of peacocks to get into the stands. With no shows so far, my focus has been on checking out brands and sleuthing for business angles… it’s a blast trying to take it all in.”
Mrs. Doubtfire Made a Cameo—in Balenciaga—at Paris Fashion Week
The question is: Who was underneath all of those prosthetics?The mysterious guest in disguise was Alexis Stone, a drag queen and professional “transformer,” who is known for their professional makeup skills and special-effects artistry. They currently have over 887,000 followers on Instagram and 199,000 on TikTok, all of whom watch Stone transform into characters that range from glamorous to grotesque (Stone also recently dressed up as Pete Davidson, and Freddy Krueger). This isn’t the first time Stone has transformed into Mrs. Doubtfire.
Even with a smaller imprint, there is definitely a lot to take in across menswear’s three weeks. In Milan, JW Anderson has popped up with an innovative digital concept alongside Zegna, Prada, Fendi, and Etro, while Paris is welcoming a new generation of international talents. LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize winners Lukhanyo Mdingi and KidSuper will pop up in Paris with new menswear collections alongside 2021 ANDAM winner Bianca Saunders. New, independent brands like Airei, Georges Wendell, Youths in Balaclava, and Liberal Youth Ministry will join them, and the week is anchored by in-person shows from Dior Men, Rick Owens, Loewe, and Louis Vuitton.
Suffice to say Vogue Runway and our readers will be busy for the next two weeks.
What Does Zegna’s IPO Mean for Business—and Fashion?
A tentpole of Milan’s menswear week, Zegna—formerly Ermenegildo Zegna—went public on the New York Stock Exchange in December 2021, consolidating its main and Z Zegna lines into a single collection by Alessandro Sartori. The Zegna show on Friday January 14 at 3 p.m. CET will be the first outing under its new label. Will it bring the always-sensitive and louche Zegna to a stricter place? Will Sartori have to think more commercially? Can we expect as many dreamy pastels?
Every Shade of Purple Is Trending for Fall 2022
From casual to glam, light or dark, this color continues to pop up on the runway.While Fashion Week and runway shows get the reputation for showcasing new must-try trends, we also see it as a reminder to wear what we already own. For example, at the moment, we're searching out closets for all items that include the color purple, since it seems to be a popular one for fall 2022.
Last month, Sartori told Leitch of a camel cashmere suit, “This is part of that luxury sophisticated image that I am trying to bring, and to raise the level of, through a different level of material research crafted through natural fibers from cashmere to hyper-performance silk, or regenerated natural material.” Expect to see more fabric experimentation on the Zegna runway alongside the relaxed and elegant suiting the label is famous for.
But, also: What does a Zegna IPO mean for owned-brand Thom Browne? Browne was mum on a recent Zoom call about his pre-fall, although it seems business in the Browne-iverse continues to boom. Let that be a sign to all the menswear designers out there: A singular viewpoint pays off in the end.
How Meta is Menswear Going to Become?
In December, JW Anderson announced an avatar scheme for his menswear show—we’ll have scoop on that this weekend—but with all the buzz about NFTs, the metaverse, and virtual fashion coming at the end of 2021, one wonders if other menswear labels are thinking as digitally as Anderson. Live-streams, videos, and lookbooks are looking like the primary means of communication this season—but that doesn’t mean fashion is averse to meta-fashion. Digital concepts take longer to execute, so we’ll be keeping an eye out for more virtual experimentation as the womenswear season begins next month.
Amazon Just Launched a Sustainable Clothing Line With Everyday Staples
Stock up now to get your spring wardrobe on lock.It's no secret that Amazon has become a gold mine for clothes. Whether you're on the hunt for basic wardrobe essentials to replenish your daily stock or you're looking into Prime shipping for your favorite men's clothing brands on Amazon, the online shopping behemoth is not one to pass up when it comes to updating your style.
Are Americans Taking Over Europe’s Menswear Shows?
A cursory glance at the Milan and Paris menswear schedules will reveal an overwhelming number of American designers—saying nothing of the ways European brands have adopted the casually reassured style of American dudes. Matthew Williams moved Alyx to Milan several years ago, but on Friday January 14 at 8 p.m. CET, the brand will stage its first runway show in Italy, showing off the new square-toe molded shoes and clunky boots Williams has been modeling on Instagram all week. (Fans are already going wild.) Williams’s Alyx will be joined by Queens-native Angelo Urrutia’s 4SDesigns in Milan, which is holding off-schedule appointments. Urrutia works closely with Italian mills and factories on fabric developments not seen this side of couture—true menswear heads should check out his new tweeds for fall.
In Paris, Rhude and Airei are carrying the American mantle as Amiri postponed its show for a later date, while Canadians Joey Gollish of Mr. Saturday and Luke Meier of Jil Sander will hit the Parisian runway on the 21st. There’s also Rick Owens, the longtime American in Paris, who will stage a small in-person show on the 20th.
We've found the most historic B&B in your state
Whether it's an uber-luxury hotel or a stunning Airbnb, America has little shortage of places to stay. But there's nothing quite like the homely feel of an old-school bed and breakfast – especially when the property has a tale to tell. From Gold Rush-era inns to 19th-century mansions, we reveal the most historic B&Bs in every state. (If you're planning a trip, be sure to check state travel advisories and up-to-date property information before you go.)
How Do You Say Goodbye to an Icon?
No one can replace Virgil Abloh. A generous and kindhearted creative, he was up for collaboration and discussion with anyone who came asking. Louis Vuitton’s show on January 20 was being worked on by Abloh before his death. Even with COVID precautions, we anticipate that many of his friends and collaborators will turn up in Paris to pay tribute to his legacy and work. Brain Dead’s Tremaine Emory tweeted “Virgil’s Plan” earlier this week, alluding to the idea that Abloh had done some legacy planning for Vuitton’s next chapter. Whatever comes down the runway on Thursday this is a guarantee: There will not be a dry eye in sight.
How Will Nigo Rethink Kenzo?
Nigo will be the first Japanese designer at Kenzo since Kenzo Takada himself. His debut collection on January 23 at 11 a.m. CET is likely to combine the Nigo signatures we all know, from graphic patterns to a roomy silhouette, with updates to Takada’s exuberant and elegant ready-to-wear. When he was appointed to the role, Nigo said, “Kenzo-san’s approach to creating originality was through his understanding of many different cultures. It is also the essence of my own philosophy of creativity. Inheriting the spirit of Kenzo san’s craftsmanship to create a new Kenzo is the greatest challenge of my 30-year career, which I intend to achieve together with the team.”
The Best Men's Clothes at Target to Buy With That Gift Card Your Aunt Gave You
There are more stylish, affordable gems up for grabs than you'd think.We should’ve known better. You don’t amass a scarily devoted customer base—or earn an endearingly puckish nickname—without doing a whole lot of things right. Turns out, at Tar-zhay menswear is one of them.
Last Question: How Much Does Men’s Fashion Week Matter in the Ye-lenciaga World?
Men’s fashion week has long been the less buzzed about, more experimental brother to the women’s ready-to-wear season, although Ye and Demna’s relationship and Gap collab challenges that runway paradigm entirely. When all the eyes—and click-to-buy fingers—of a new generation of menswear shoppers are looking to Ye’s daily date nights with Julia Fox for style inspiration, how much does a runway show really matter? Men’s style has always been borne from the streets, and few understand this better than Ye and Demna who are refracting wearable, utility-driven menswear back to their customers through real-life experiences. With a smaller celebrity presence at the shows thanks to Omicron, the Ye-lenciaga model is only growing stronger.